Post by KING7thGen on Jun 8, 2010 23:10:26 GMT -5
So I am sure others have been looking for headers for the 98-02 just like I have. I found some on Ebay. I ended up winning them for $10 + $40 shipping. Not bad for some new headers. I noticed a few things while installing them, and I thought I would make a post.
1. If you get stainless steel headers, and the bolt plate is "chromed" like the rest of the headers, don't use the stock gasket. The stock gasket is aluminum and will leak.
2. Do not attempt to remove the old header with out using some kind of solvent on the nuts first. I recommend PB-Blaster, that stuff works miracles. If you do attempt to remove the nuts before "releasing" them you will likely strip the nut like me and spend a few hours with a Dremel trying to cut the old nut off without damaging the stud. (Note: For anyone who does not know, the header is held on by nuts which screw on to studs coming out of the head. As opposed to the traditional bolt into the head)
3. Follow the wires off of the O2 sensor and unplug that before trying to pull the old header out.
4. Unbolt the exhaust flange clamp first, this will make it easier to get the header off. If you don't do this first, the header will not move and break free what the nuts are removed.
5. When putting on the new header, put the O2 sensor in before placing the header into the engine bay.
6. There is a plate bolted to the firewall there to protect one hose from the heat of the header, it is held in by two nuts and one bolt. It is directly behind the header, toward the middle of the fire wall. I removed that plate after removing the old header. The new header was rubbing on it when I was trying to get it in. I was able to replace it after the new header was in.
7. When placing the new header in, you will need a new exhaust flange gasket. I got one from auto zone, it was of course the wrong part, so I made my own from exhaust tape. They has another one, but I didn't feel like going back.
8. When you do get the new one in, put the exhaust flange clamp on first, but only tighten it a little, enough so it will stay on. Then put on one of the nuts for the header before continuing to tighten the flange clamp. Otherwise you will have a hell of a time trying to get the clamp on.
9. I had to get new nuts for the headers. The bolt plate on the stock header was something like 1/8 - 1/4 inch thick. The plate on the new header I got was closer to 3/4 inch think if not more. The stock nuts would only go on about 1 thread and I lost two of them on the first drive. I got mine from Lowes they are M8-1.25 Class 8 Hex Nuts. I used a thin washer as well as some blue Lock Tight to make sure they stay on.
1. If you get stainless steel headers, and the bolt plate is "chromed" like the rest of the headers, don't use the stock gasket. The stock gasket is aluminum and will leak.
2. Do not attempt to remove the old header with out using some kind of solvent on the nuts first. I recommend PB-Blaster, that stuff works miracles. If you do attempt to remove the nuts before "releasing" them you will likely strip the nut like me and spend a few hours with a Dremel trying to cut the old nut off without damaging the stud. (Note: For anyone who does not know, the header is held on by nuts which screw on to studs coming out of the head. As opposed to the traditional bolt into the head)
3. Follow the wires off of the O2 sensor and unplug that before trying to pull the old header out.
4. Unbolt the exhaust flange clamp first, this will make it easier to get the header off. If you don't do this first, the header will not move and break free what the nuts are removed.
5. When putting on the new header, put the O2 sensor in before placing the header into the engine bay.
6. There is a plate bolted to the firewall there to protect one hose from the heat of the header, it is held in by two nuts and one bolt. It is directly behind the header, toward the middle of the fire wall. I removed that plate after removing the old header. The new header was rubbing on it when I was trying to get it in. I was able to replace it after the new header was in.
7. When placing the new header in, you will need a new exhaust flange gasket. I got one from auto zone, it was of course the wrong part, so I made my own from exhaust tape. They has another one, but I didn't feel like going back.
8. When you do get the new one in, put the exhaust flange clamp on first, but only tighten it a little, enough so it will stay on. Then put on one of the nuts for the header before continuing to tighten the flange clamp. Otherwise you will have a hell of a time trying to get the clamp on.
9. I had to get new nuts for the headers. The bolt plate on the stock header was something like 1/8 - 1/4 inch thick. The plate on the new header I got was closer to 3/4 inch think if not more. The stock nuts would only go on about 1 thread and I lost two of them on the first drive. I got mine from Lowes they are M8-1.25 Class 8 Hex Nuts. I used a thin washer as well as some blue Lock Tight to make sure they stay on.
Aww man, at least you tried. What are you planning to try next?
