Post by Y2kturbocorolla on Nov 15, 2011 19:18:11 GMT -5
hand file or dremmel tool
2" wide masking tape
220 grit sand paper
400 grit sand paper
800 grit sandpaper
1200-1500 grit sandpaper
rubbing/buffing compound
electric or pneumatic buffer and wool pad, or polishing cloths
Most plastic headlights have plastic "nubs" protruding from the surface, these are for molding purposes and do nothing for the beam of the light itself, so it will be much easier on your project if you file them down flush with the surface of the lens either manually or with a dremel tool. Protect any adjascent surfaces around the headlight with a couple rows of masking tape several layers thick......repainting is EXPENSIVE!!!!
Beginning with the 220 grit sandpaper, woork over the surface of the lens in small circular motions. As you begin to remove the broken down or degraded plastic from the surface, the plastic sanding residue will begin to turn white from yellowish and the surface of the lens will begin to look more blemish free. Do this until you have a uniform, cledar but scuffed appearing surface, this should only take 2-3 minutes by hand depending on the size of the area. Next move to the 400 grit paper, but this time move in straight lines in an "X" pattern, or horizontally, then vertically until all of the circular scratches from the 220 grit paper are gone. Next you will step up to the 800 grit paper, again in circular motions until the straigh line 400 grit scratches are gone. Finally you are on the last phase of resurfacing, start in straight line motions until the 800 grit scratches are gone, then go in small circular motions, these will be easier to polish out.
If you have a buffing machine, 1200 rpms is aout ideal speed with a wool pad for this operation. Put approximately a half dollar size "1.5" diameter spot of compound on the lens and use the wool pad on the buffer to spread it across the surface of the lens without starting the machine. Next start the buffer and using the outer 2-3 inches of the pad, work from side to side and bottom to top until the compound starts to dry. Reapply compound as needed and repeat this process until you have a nice clear brilliant shine on your lens. Keep the buffer moving at all times, if you sit in one spot, you WILL melt the plastic and then you will need a new headlight. If you do not have a buffer, this process will take you quite a while and will wear you out, so be ready and be patient. Basically you will use the same process, but instead of the buffer, you are going to use a fine woven cloth (terry or micrfiber will work well) and work in straight line, then circular patterns until you acheive the same look described above.
2" wide masking tape
220 grit sand paper
400 grit sand paper
800 grit sandpaper
1200-1500 grit sandpaper
rubbing/buffing compound
electric or pneumatic buffer and wool pad, or polishing cloths
Most plastic headlights have plastic "nubs" protruding from the surface, these are for molding purposes and do nothing for the beam of the light itself, so it will be much easier on your project if you file them down flush with the surface of the lens either manually or with a dremel tool. Protect any adjascent surfaces around the headlight with a couple rows of masking tape several layers thick......repainting is EXPENSIVE!!!!
Beginning with the 220 grit sandpaper, woork over the surface of the lens in small circular motions. As you begin to remove the broken down or degraded plastic from the surface, the plastic sanding residue will begin to turn white from yellowish and the surface of the lens will begin to look more blemish free. Do this until you have a uniform, cledar but scuffed appearing surface, this should only take 2-3 minutes by hand depending on the size of the area. Next move to the 400 grit paper, but this time move in straight lines in an "X" pattern, or horizontally, then vertically until all of the circular scratches from the 220 grit paper are gone. Next you will step up to the 800 grit paper, again in circular motions until the straigh line 400 grit scratches are gone. Finally you are on the last phase of resurfacing, start in straight line motions until the 800 grit scratches are gone, then go in small circular motions, these will be easier to polish out.
If you have a buffing machine, 1200 rpms is aout ideal speed with a wool pad for this operation. Put approximately a half dollar size "1.5" diameter spot of compound on the lens and use the wool pad on the buffer to spread it across the surface of the lens without starting the machine. Next start the buffer and using the outer 2-3 inches of the pad, work from side to side and bottom to top until the compound starts to dry. Reapply compound as needed and repeat this process until you have a nice clear brilliant shine on your lens. Keep the buffer moving at all times, if you sit in one spot, you WILL melt the plastic and then you will need a new headlight. If you do not have a buffer, this process will take you quite a while and will wear you out, so be ready and be patient. Basically you will use the same process, but instead of the buffer, you are going to use a fine woven cloth (terry or micrfiber will work well) and work in straight line, then circular patterns until you acheive the same look described above.
Aww man, at least you tried. What are you planning to try next?
