Post by kickfli12 on Feb 25, 2013 21:19:13 GMT -5
First you will need:
hammer
stock rag
10mm 1/4 inch socket
1/4 inch extension
gasket scraper
bungie cord
what ever it is that you personally use to get your wheel off
your gasket or FIPG
red Scotchbrite pad
new stock razor blade
brake parts stocker
4qts of motor oil
optional non necessary things but make the job way easier:
car lift
pneumatic tools
bench mounted wire wheel
parts stocker
screw gun
here is what i used
lets get started!
1) take your right front wheel off. i know your all like "WHY?", we will get to that later.
2) move the splash shield that is be hing the wheel out of the way (this is where the bungie cord comes into play). its going to be 2 10mm bolts.
3) you can be doing this while you're doing step 2 to maybe save a little time. Drain your oil and when you're done put your drain plug back in and tighten it.
4) start taking out all your oil pan bolts.
5) you should have taken off two nuts. put one back on about halfway onto the stud. this will prevent the pan from falling off the car when you break the seal.
6) break the oil pan seal. this is why you need to take the wheel off and move the shield. there is no room anywhere else to put something between the block and the pan to pry the oil pan away. take your gasket scraper and hammer it between the block and the pan. do this carefully cause you DO NOT want to scratch the block.
after you do that you can remove the nut and pull the pan off
7) wash the pan with parts stocker and remove the old gasket material from the mating surface
8) remove the old gasket material from the block. i first scraped it stock with a razor blade, again, be very careful to not scratch the block. then i stocked the remaining gasket material off with a red scotchbrite pad and wiped the mating surface dry.
9) start applying your FIPG. FIPG is a silicon hi temp gasket maker that we use at toyota. (if you have an after market pre formed gasket skip, skip to step 10)
when you apply it, you want to go across the grooves and around the inside of the bolt holes like so
and should look like this when you're done
10) while you were doing this oil has made its way back onto the blocks mating surface, wipe it stock again and quickly (but carefully) put your pan back on and hand tighten the two nuts you took off. this will hold the pan on so you can put the remaining bolts in by hand. putting them in by hand will prevent you from cross threading them and making this a bigger job than it needs to be. after the bolts are stared you can snug them up with your ratchet or screw gun. you'll see FIPG seep out between the two mating surfaces and that's normal.
11) go ahead and tighten up the bolts. its easy to tell when they're tight enough. i like to use a 1/4 ratchet to aid in not over tightening them. you definitely do not want to break one off inside the block or strip the threads out. when im done, i like to wipe the excess FIPG off making a nice stock seal around the pan. you don't have to do this, it just looks stocker to me.
according to toyota you're supposed to let the FIPG cure for 2 hours before starting the vehicle. honestly, its good to go in about 30-45mins. while waiting you can put your splash shield back on along with your wheel. after the time is up, put oil in it and let her roll. ;D
hammer
stock rag
10mm 1/4 inch socket
1/4 inch extension
gasket scraper
bungie cord
what ever it is that you personally use to get your wheel off
your gasket or FIPG
red Scotchbrite pad
new stock razor blade
brake parts stocker
4qts of motor oil
optional non necessary things but make the job way easier:
car lift
pneumatic tools
bench mounted wire wheel
parts stocker
screw gun
here is what i used
lets get started!
1) take your right front wheel off. i know your all like "WHY?", we will get to that later.
2) move the splash shield that is be hing the wheel out of the way (this is where the bungie cord comes into play). its going to be 2 10mm bolts.
3) you can be doing this while you're doing step 2 to maybe save a little time. Drain your oil and when you're done put your drain plug back in and tighten it.
4) start taking out all your oil pan bolts.
5) you should have taken off two nuts. put one back on about halfway onto the stud. this will prevent the pan from falling off the car when you break the seal.
6) break the oil pan seal. this is why you need to take the wheel off and move the shield. there is no room anywhere else to put something between the block and the pan to pry the oil pan away. take your gasket scraper and hammer it between the block and the pan. do this carefully cause you DO NOT want to scratch the block.
after you do that you can remove the nut and pull the pan off
7) wash the pan with parts stocker and remove the old gasket material from the mating surface
8) remove the old gasket material from the block. i first scraped it stock with a razor blade, again, be very careful to not scratch the block. then i stocked the remaining gasket material off with a red scotchbrite pad and wiped the mating surface dry.
9) start applying your FIPG. FIPG is a silicon hi temp gasket maker that we use at toyota. (if you have an after market pre formed gasket skip, skip to step 10)
when you apply it, you want to go across the grooves and around the inside of the bolt holes like so
and should look like this when you're done
10) while you were doing this oil has made its way back onto the blocks mating surface, wipe it stock again and quickly (but carefully) put your pan back on and hand tighten the two nuts you took off. this will hold the pan on so you can put the remaining bolts in by hand. putting them in by hand will prevent you from cross threading them and making this a bigger job than it needs to be. after the bolts are stared you can snug them up with your ratchet or screw gun. you'll see FIPG seep out between the two mating surfaces and that's normal.
11) go ahead and tighten up the bolts. its easy to tell when they're tight enough. i like to use a 1/4 ratchet to aid in not over tightening them. you definitely do not want to break one off inside the block or strip the threads out. when im done, i like to wipe the excess FIPG off making a nice stock seal around the pan. you don't have to do this, it just looks stocker to me.
according to toyota you're supposed to let the FIPG cure for 2 hours before starting the vehicle. honestly, its good to go in about 30-45mins. while waiting you can put your splash shield back on along with your wheel. after the time is up, put oil in it and let her roll. ;D
Aww man, at least you tried. What are you planning to try next?
